Trekking around the tourist trail can be exhausting, and it can mean you spend a lot of time in parts of the city which other than the obvious, don’t have an awful lot to offer, surrounded by tourist tat and overpriced, underwhelming food and drink.

The view of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triumph

The view from the Arc de Triumph is undoubtedly worth a visit and Notre Dame Cathedral is stunning but I wouldn’t trade my time getting lost in the city streets, in the street art of the 13th or 11th or 19th arrondissements, in the bars and cafes of Oberkampf or Bastille for a moment more at the sites.

The talks at the bookshops in Belleville, the Monday night poetry in the basement bars of Oberkampf, the chats with locals, the good food and even the shit attempt at cooking Ratatouille in my studio Air BnB near Père Lachaise were what made Paris for me – the modern culture, the history of the area, the local influence and experience were far more important in how I viewed the city at the end of the stay than climbing the Eiffel Tower, which let’s not lie, I was far, far too hungover to do.

Hopare’s street art in Belleville, featuring a portrait of FKA Twigs